On a hike to the summit of Jaizkibel (see my blog Jaizkibel - Hike from a Ruined Spanish Parador), a mountain/ridge overlooking the Bay of Biscay in Spain, we almost continued the extra 6 kilometers to Pasaia, but with the rain intensifying, we decided to go another time. Unfortunately, years passed without our ever visiting what was reputed to be one of the most picturesque coastal villages in Spain.
On Wednesday, our Basque neighbors, Koro and Christian, who have taken us to some excellent restaurants in nearby Spain, suggested lunch in Pasaia.
Hendaye is in France. Hondarribia is in Spain. Pasaia is located across the border from France between Hondarribia and San Sebastian. It was built at the beginning of the 13th century. Lafayette launched his voyage to help the American revolution from Pasaia and Victor Hugo spent time there in a home which is now a museum dedicated to the author.
Pasaia served as the biggest whaling port in Europe up until the late 18th century. In the 16th century, long before the French and British laid claim, the Basques formed partnerships with the Inuit people of Newfoundland and ultimately became the major suppliers of whale oil for all of Europe. Many Basques settled in Newfoundland, which in the 16th century was actually known as 'the Land of the Basques'. Today, Pasaia and Red Bank are sister cities.
Approaching the village, we drove past the main port which housed massive cargo ships. Christian told us about his experiences watching them enter the narrow entrance to the port with just a few meters on each side and when we ultimately saw the entrance, it was hard to believe these huge vessels could make it through.
We continued up to a parking area and then entered the village on foot. The streets were cobblestone and the passages included extremely narrow tunnels. We had to step into doorways several times to allow vehicles to pass.
Pasaia served as the biggest whaling port in Europe up until the late 18th century. In the 16th century, long before the French and British laid claim, the Basques formed partnerships with the Inuit people of Newfoundland and ultimately became the major suppliers of whale oil for all of Europe. Many Basques settled in Newfoundland, which in the 16th century was actually known as 'the Land of the Basques'. Today, Pasaia and Red Bank are sister cities.
Approaching the village, we drove past the main port which housed massive cargo ships. Christian told us about his experiences watching them enter the narrow entrance to the port with just a few meters on each side and when we ultimately saw the entrance, it was hard to believe these huge vessels could make it through.
We continued up to a parking area and then entered the village on foot. The streets were cobblestone and the passages included extremely narrow tunnels. We had to step into doorways several times to allow vehicles to pass.
Koro and Karen on the trail We followed the road through the xirimiri (Basque for drizzle, pronounced chirri-mirri). The narrow road becomes a pedestrian path, passing colorful homes, many of which were built into the faces of the cliffs bordering the entrance to the port.
The path continues to the Bay of Biscay, then turns into a trail leading to the top of Jaizkibel and beyond to the east.
The path continues to the Bay of Biscay, then turns into a trail leading to the top of Jaizkibel and beyond to the east.
Senokodulua lighthouse near the Camino de Santiago There's a water taxi which you can take to the other side where there are trails leading to the spectacular Camino de Santiago, past view points like the breathtaking Senokodulua lighthouse, and ultimately to San Sebastian.
No swimming across to the Albaola Basque Sea Factory! The other side is also home to Albaola, the Basque Sea Factory, which does restoration and replication of ancient boats and ships. You can take a tour and see the process they're using to build a replica of the NAO San Juan, a 16th century whaling ship, using only the tools and techniques of the time. The local Basque fishermen are planning to sail this replica to Newfoundland once it's completed.
View from Txulotxo (not my photo) With the heavy xirimiri, we cut our hike short and made our way to Txulotxo, a restaurant overlooking the water where we shared appetizers of grilled calamari, a Spanish salad that brought tears to Karen's eyes as she remembered salads from when she lived in Spain, and a remarkable dish of eggs scrambled with cepes, a local mushroom delicacy which I think we call porcinis. For mains, Koro had the mixed grill of all sorts of seafood, Karen and I had a brochette of lotte (monkfish) and prawns in a mildly spicy garlic sauce, and Christian had cod in pil-pil sauce, an unusual Basque garlic concoction. The day's special dessert was Copa de la Casa: layers of flan and ice cream with a fruit compote (ours was peaches) and Chantilly. It's apparently an intermittently popular dessert in Spain. In spite of numerous visits over the years, this is the first time we've seen (and eaten) it.
During our superb meal, we were entertained by the fish dancing just below our window. I'm not sure what they were, but they were 12-16" long and kept swimming with their heads out of the water, mouths open. I ran into a school of hundreds of these some years ago surfing, but no one has yet identified these bizarre fish.
After lunch we took a leisurely walk back to the car. Christian decided to take the scenic route on a small road that leads from Pasaia to the top of Jaizkibel then down to Hondarribia. Unfortunately, with the xirimiri, visibility dropped to near zero as we climbed the 1800' mountain so we missed most of the spectacular views up the French coastline.
As for Pasaia, we will go back. There's so much to discover and so many spectacular places to hike (and to eat)!
If you liked this post, please check out my novels.
During our superb meal, we were entertained by the fish dancing just below our window. I'm not sure what they were, but they were 12-16" long and kept swimming with their heads out of the water, mouths open. I ran into a school of hundreds of these some years ago surfing, but no one has yet identified these bizarre fish.
After lunch we took a leisurely walk back to the car. Christian decided to take the scenic route on a small road that leads from Pasaia to the top of Jaizkibel then down to Hondarribia. Unfortunately, with the xirimiri, visibility dropped to near zero as we climbed the 1800' mountain so we missed most of the spectacular views up the French coastline.
As for Pasaia, we will go back. There's so much to discover and so many spectacular places to hike (and to eat)!
If you liked this post, please check out my novels.
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