Jaizkibel seen from St Jean de Luz looking over Socoa I've written a few blogs about les Trois Couronnes, one of the majestic peaks that dominate the Pays Basque in France. I've also mentioned La Rhune, a higher peak to which many of the Basques attribute supernatural occurrences. These two dominate the skyline to the south. But there's one more that rises out of the ocean just below the border. It's called Jaizkibel. While we know quite a bit about the first two, we'd never hiked Jaizkibel. It was a Saturday with rain forecast to come in about noon. I had hoped to hike west of San Sebastian near the town of Itziar - an area called Itxaspe. The cliffs are spectacular, the rock formations date from ancient periods, and to be honest, it appears there are some 'undiscovered' perfect point and reef breaks there if you're willing to descend the three hundred foot cliffs.
Hondarribia to Pasaia But because of the forecast rain, Martine, our hiking partner, suggested we do Jaizkibel instead. The mountain is a ridge that borders the ocean starting in the now-trendy Spanish town of Hondarribia. The ocean side is rough with no roads and only trail access. The inland side is a valley With the Pyrenees (and Les Trois Couronnes) just a few miles to the south. If you start at the lighthouse in Hondarribia, it's 22 km (14 miles) to Pasaia at the other end of the ridge. Martine proposed we start about half way, at a ruined Parador, given the incoming weather.
I didn't know anything about Paradors. In our ten years together, Karen never mentioned that she had stayed in many when she lived in Spain. Paradors are luxury hotels owned by the Spanish government which are located in old castles, monasteries, estates, and other exotic buildings. They were built by the government to encourage the economies of out-of-the-way places. I found a site with a map of the Spanish Paradors and clicked on several to get descriptions of the properties as well as things to do in the surrounding areas. Karen and I will definitely be visiting a few of these (particularly in Galicia and out near the border with Portugal).
I didn't know anything about Paradors. In our ten years together, Karen never mentioned that she had stayed in many when she lived in Spain. Paradors are luxury hotels owned by the Spanish government which are located in old castles, monasteries, estates, and other exotic buildings. They were built by the government to encourage the economies of out-of-the-way places. I found a site with a map of the Spanish Paradors and clicked on several to get descriptions of the properties as well as things to do in the surrounding areas. Karen and I will definitely be visiting a few of these (particularly in Galicia and out near the border with Portugal).
 The ruins of the Jaizkibel Parador |  The Jaizkibel Parador before |
The Jaizkibel Parador was torn down in 1999 and all that's left are some stone structures and part of the foundation. The views are spectacular. On the south side, you see the valley with Irun below and the Pyrenees behind. To the north, the rugged cliffs below, and to the northeast, Hondarribia, Hendaye, and the coastline of southwest France. On a clear day you can see much of the way to Bordeaux. Unfortunately, it wasn't a clear day...
 Looking south (inland) |  France is on the other side of the jetty |  Several ancient sentinels guard the top of the ridge |
We started our hike with a descent of about 200' towards the ocean along a closed dirt road. About a mile later after trying a small trail that led nowhere, we encountered the GR 121 - one of Europe's Grand Randonnees. This is the 22 km trail I mentioned above. It is a well-maintained, easy trail with gentle slopes. We turned towards Pasaia and followed the trail into the mist as we climbed towards the peak of Jaizkibel. Along the way we had views of the rugged, mostly inaccessible coast below us to the north and off to the west. There were numerous trails that branched off the GR121 towards the ocean below, but given the impending weather we decided to save them for another day.
During most of our hikes in the Pyrenees, we've encountered wild horses called Pottoks. They are small and very tough-looking. As we climbed, we encountered a group of horses, including a foal, but we weren't sure if they were wild or not.
During most of our hikes in the Pyrenees, we've encountered wild horses called Pottoks. They are small and very tough-looking. As we climbed, we encountered a group of horses, including a foal, but we weren't sure if they were wild or not.
 The spectacular rugged coastline to the west |  Wild (?) horses |  Martine and Karen heading into the mist |
We continued upward thorough a forested area crossed by numerous creeks but decided to bypass the trail that led to the tower-laden peak, choosing instead to follow the GR 121 along the top of the ridge.
Three and a half miles into the hike, we decided to stop for lunch at one of the ruined lookout posts similar to the one near the Parador. We set up our lunches and of course, it began to rain, hard. We wolfed down as much as we could under the improvised shelter of our rain jackets and decided it might be a good idea to head back. Fortunately, about a mile later, the rain eased up and we got a few sunny breaks.
Three and a half miles into the hike, we decided to stop for lunch at one of the ruined lookout posts similar to the one near the Parador. We set up our lunches and of course, it began to rain, hard. We wolfed down as much as we could under the improvised shelter of our rain jackets and decided it might be a good idea to head back. Fortunately, about a mile later, the rain eased up and we got a few sunny breaks.
 A break from the rain |  Along the ridge on the way back |  Heading back toward the Parador |
We made our way back through a few sprinkles, but it was clear from the increasing winds that the main part of the storm was on its way. It had been nice hike of about 7 miles round trip. In addition to the impressive views, along the way, Martine pointed out a few things of note. The first picture below is of a very small pinkish plant that is a carnivore. It secretes a dew-like drop that attracts insects, but is so sticky that they can't escape. Then the leaves enshroud them. We were able to trigger the closing with pieces of grass.
We also encountered some interesting rock formations with large hollows in them. Martine explained that these volcanic rocks were formed with glass balls inside. As the rocks erode, the balls become exposed, fall out, then eventually roll all the way to the ocean.
We also encountered some interesting rock formations with large hollows in them. Martine explained that these volcanic rocks were formed with glass balls inside. As the rocks erode, the balls become exposed, fall out, then eventually roll all the way to the ocean.
 Low-lying carnivorous plants |  The hollows in the rock used to contain glass |
After our return, Martine send me a few pictures from one of her previous hikes on a much nicer day. She had taken one of the lower trails from the lighthouse in Hondarribia.
 Very rugged by the water |  Looking west on a clear day |  Looking northeast |
As you can see, it's a remarkable area. Most of it is inaccessible except by foot. We're looking forward to another, longer hike at Jaizkibel starting at the lighthouse. We'll be exploring many of the lower trails that lead into small protected coves.
Although Les Trois Couronnes and La Rhune are still the most imposing peaks of the coastal Pays Basque, if you're in the area you should consider a hike at Jaizkibel too.
Although Les Trois Couronnes and La Rhune are still the most imposing peaks of the coastal Pays Basque, if you're in the area you should consider a hike at Jaizkibel too.
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