The Trois Couronnes over Guethary In the picture at left, it looks like Les Trois Couronnes looms over Guethary. In reality, it's about 15 miles away. But for me, this mountain marks the Pays Basque. It does loom over the entire area. When I see it, I know I've finally arrived at the place I first visited forty years ago. And every time I see it during my visits to the area, I'm overwhelmed with a sense of the magic of the place.
I'm not sure that Les Trois Couronnes has the same allure for the locals who often talk about La Rhune, a nearby mountain that's about two hundred feet higher and which has historical legends of dragons and witches. But La Rhune has been tamed. There are radio towers and even a train to the top. Hikes around it are beautiful, but for me it just doesn't compare. Les Trois Couronnes is accessible only on foot and requires some endurance to reach. You don't see many people on the way up or down. It's a beautiful spot.
I'm not sure that Les Trois Couronnes has the same allure for the locals who often talk about La Rhune, a nearby mountain that's about two hundred feet higher and which has historical legends of dragons and witches. But La Rhune has been tamed. There are radio towers and even a train to the top. Hikes around it are beautiful, but for me it just doesn't compare. Les Trois Couronnes is accessible only on foot and requires some endurance to reach. You don't see many people on the way up or down. It's a beautiful spot.
Steve and Karen with Les Trois Couronnes in the background Several years ago on one of our first visits to the Pays Basque, a friend mentioned that they had climbed Les Trois Couronnes. Karen and I knew we had to do it. On each of our subsequent visits to the Pays Basque, we hiked the trails that ultimately led us to the multiple
peaks. Unfortunately, with Karen's hip injury, for the past several years
we were unable to revisit the mountain. But with Karen's recovery, this was one of the first things on our agenda for our spring trip this year. Of course, before tackling the climb, we wanted to be sure that Karen could hike - she'd proved herself with the Big Sur Marathon 21-mile walking race, but that was walking, not climbing on a rough trail.
So, during our first few days in the Pays Basque, we did other hikes. After successfully taking the Sentier Litorral into Saint Jean de Luz and back (about 6 miles each way), we tried a challenging hike at Biriatou. Karen had no problems so we planned on climbing Les Trois Couronnes two days later. But, as the Israeli's say, Man makes plans and God laughs.
It started raining.
peaks. Unfortunately, with Karen's hip injury, for the past several years
we were unable to revisit the mountain. But with Karen's recovery, this was one of the first things on our agenda for our spring trip this year. Of course, before tackling the climb, we wanted to be sure that Karen could hike - she'd proved herself with the Big Sur Marathon 21-mile walking race, but that was walking, not climbing on a rough trail.
So, during our first few days in the Pays Basque, we did other hikes. After successfully taking the Sentier Litorral into Saint Jean de Luz and back (about 6 miles each way), we tried a challenging hike at Biriatou. Karen had no problems so we planned on climbing Les Trois Couronnes two days later. But, as the Israeli's say, Man makes plans and God laughs.
It started raining.
Or maybe I should say that aside from a day or two where we had other commitments, it rained every day during our six-week stay. Having once been caught at the top of Les Trois Couronnes in a rainstorm, we knew we didn't want to face
water cascading down the rocky trails and slippery slopes.
So, by the end of this trip, because of all the rain, we were disappointed that we were unable to make the hike to Les Trois Couronnes. But I keep thinking about it. The weather turned beautiful our last few days there and if not for the commitments... But surfing, walking, shopping for dinner, and even playing disc golf, the mountain seemed to insist. And now that I'm back in Santa Cruz, I need some closure, so I thought I'd write a blog about Les Trois Couronnes and I'd include pictures from previous hikes (plus a few I borrowed).
The Trois Couronnes, also known as Penas de Haya in Spanish, consists of three main peaks: Irumugarrieta at 806 meters (2644'), Txurrumurru at 826 meters (2710') and Erroilbide at 836 meters (2743'). You've got to love those Basque names. To get there you take the N-1 into Irun and then the GI-3454 into the park for about 5 miles. Half a mile or so after the road crests, you'll see a parking area on the left with large signs. This is the Col d'Elurretxe. There are several trails that wind up and around the peaks from here but unless you're planning to do some rock climbing, avoid the trail on the right. We'll probably give it a try on a nice day. To my understanding and from the pictures I've seen, this is the only way to go if you want to do a full loop as opposed to an up and back down the same trail. The climb up the rocks looks reasonable though a rope is recommended for beginners. However, the climb down the rocks is treacherous, so going in the reverse direction is not advised.
water cascading down the rocky trails and slippery slopes.
So, by the end of this trip, because of all the rain, we were disappointed that we were unable to make the hike to Les Trois Couronnes. But I keep thinking about it. The weather turned beautiful our last few days there and if not for the commitments... But surfing, walking, shopping for dinner, and even playing disc golf, the mountain seemed to insist. And now that I'm back in Santa Cruz, I need some closure, so I thought I'd write a blog about Les Trois Couronnes and I'd include pictures from previous hikes (plus a few I borrowed).
The Trois Couronnes, also known as Penas de Haya in Spanish, consists of three main peaks: Irumugarrieta at 806 meters (2644'), Txurrumurru at 826 meters (2710') and Erroilbide at 836 meters (2743'). You've got to love those Basque names. To get there you take the N-1 into Irun and then the GI-3454 into the park for about 5 miles. Half a mile or so after the road crests, you'll see a parking area on the left with large signs. This is the Col d'Elurretxe. There are several trails that wind up and around the peaks from here but unless you're planning to do some rock climbing, avoid the trail on the right. We'll probably give it a try on a nice day. To my understanding and from the pictures I've seen, this is the only way to go if you want to do a full loop as opposed to an up and back down the same trail. The climb up the rocks looks reasonable though a rope is recommended for beginners. However, the climb down the rocks is treacherous, so going in the reverse direction is not advised.
Follow the fence From the parking lot, the left trail passes the high voltage power 'pole' and then winds through a scenic section of the east side of the peaks. At a less than obvious fork, you need to turn right and follow the fence to the edge of the trees beyond. It takes a few minutes to find the next trail marker in the trees, but if you walk straight up, you'll find the trail again. It winds upwards past a bunker built during the Spanish Civil War, then gets a bit rough. The rough trail affords numerous views of Irun and Hendaye and the French Pays Basque.
The trail continues upwards and about 45 minutes into the climb, you'll reach the Cueva del Juncal - a cave with a shrine to the patron saint of Irun. You're actually just a few feet below the summit of Irumugarrieta.
The trail continues upwards and about 45 minutes into the climb, you'll reach the Cueva del Juncal - a cave with a shrine to the patron saint of Irun. You're actually just a few feet below the summit of Irumugarrieta.
 Trail starts to get rough - watch your step! |  Getting steep near the first summit |  Karen from inside the Cueva del Juncal |
Karen with the Chillida sculpture and the next peaks in the background If you go to the right of the cave, there is are some great views of the peaks as well as views of the valleys to the west in Spain. You'll pass a large fracture in the rocks which is apparently a somewhat extensive cave. We haven't explored it yet. Beyond that, there is a metal sculpture by Eduardo Chillida, a renown Basque sculptor famous for large outdoor pieces. This one is small but well-placed.
To get to the top of the first peak (Irumugarrieta), go back the way you came and climb up over the Cueva del Juncal. It's not far.
The next peak, Txurrumurru, is a 5-10 minute walk/easy climb on a spectacular trail.
Another 5-10 minutes with some more challenging climbing and you can reach the summit of Erroibide. You'll see that the 'trail' down to the other side is not easy. A rope would be nice as there is a hook in the face of the rocks. It looks much easier to climb up than to go down. Hence the reason to take the other trail from the bottom if you want to do a full loop.
The next peak, Txurrumurru, is a 5-10 minute walk/easy climb on a spectacular trail.
Another 5-10 minutes with some more challenging climbing and you can reach the summit of Erroibide. You'll see that the 'trail' down to the other side is not easy. A rope would be nice as there is a hook in the face of the rocks. It looks much easier to climb up than to go down. Hence the reason to take the other trail from the bottom if you want to do a full loop.
 Trail to Txurrumurru |  Txurrumurru summit with bird sculpture |
The descent affords quite a few impressive views of the Pays Basque. Since I'm paranoid about falling, I tend to go slower down the mountain than going up. The total round trip time after exploring the caves, sculptures and vistas, and taking pictures is about two hours. The day the deluge hit, it was much longer. The steep part of the trail became a raging torrent of water and visibility was limited with the pounding rain and wind. If the weather looks questionable, I'd postpone your hike for another day. Unfortunately, with all the bad weather on our most recent trip, we delayed and delayed. Hopefully we'll be spending more time on Les Trois Couronnes in the fall. With luck, we'll succeed on the hard route. As this point, we can only dream and look at pictures from past trips.
If you get to the Pays Basque, you can't help but be impressed by Les Trois Couronnes any time you look south towards Spain. As imposing as it may appear from below, Les Trois Couronnes is a truly magical place to hike.
If you get to the Pays Basque, you can't help but be impressed by Les Trois Couronnes any time you look south towards Spain. As imposing as it may appear from below, Les Trois Couronnes is a truly magical place to hike.
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