Pouldreuzic and Perros Guirec Dare Brittany! That's the motto that the tourist boards are promoting in Brittany, France. And from our experiences there, we understand where they're coming from. Brittany is unique. It's more rugged. The people are tougher. Even the bread is heartier.
Like the Basques from our favorite region of France, the Bretons had a longstanding separatist movement and still maintain their own language. Many of the road signs are in two languages.
While Quiberon is in Brittany and fascinated us with its varied coastline and nearby prehistory, I don't think we were quite prepared for Finistere. It was much more stark than we had imagined - almost bleak. I had heard a lot about La Torche, the surf break with its famous Ascenseur (Elevator) - a current that runs at up to 8 miles per hour and is great for propelling you back to the lineup but we really weren't expecting any waves as the surf forecast wasn't promising. However, with our great introduction to Brittany in Quiberon, we had high hopes for this more remote area.
Even the names of the towns seemed intriguing. Lot's of 'P's and apostrophes in names like Penmarc'h, Pouldreuzic, Plozevet, and Pluguffan.
Like the Basques from our favorite region of France, the Bretons had a longstanding separatist movement and still maintain their own language. Many of the road signs are in two languages.
While Quiberon is in Brittany and fascinated us with its varied coastline and nearby prehistory, I don't think we were quite prepared for Finistere. It was much more stark than we had imagined - almost bleak. I had heard a lot about La Torche, the surf break with its famous Ascenseur (Elevator) - a current that runs at up to 8 miles per hour and is great for propelling you back to the lineup but we really weren't expecting any waves as the surf forecast wasn't promising. However, with our great introduction to Brittany in Quiberon, we had high hopes for this more remote area.
Even the names of the towns seemed intriguing. Lot's of 'P's and apostrophes in names like Penmarc'h, Pouldreuzic, Plozevet, and Pluguffan.
Homes in Pouldreuzic We drove through craggy rolling hills, crossing rivers, and rounding the larger city of Quimper. Suddenly the roads narrowed - all routes seemed to be single-laned. There were fields but they all seemed to be fallow - nothing was planted - and it was the end of May! We saw very few houses, just lots of open countryside. Nothing really changed as we neared the coast and approached our hotel. However, the architecture of the homes was quite different. As we later learned, the homes were built for multiple families and their animals - to shelter them from the harsh winters. Then, there it was - a completely incongruous building with neon lights - the Breiz Armor. Although the hotel was nice in a Best Western sort of way, it seemed completely out of place on Penhors plage which is officially part of Pouldreuzic. We decided to cancel our dinner reservations and to search the nearby towns for a more 'authentic' place to eat.
Tronoen Chapel with Calvary (on the left) Continuing on the small country roads, we found some charming villages and ultimately a good restaurant. On our way back just after sunset, out in the middle of nowhere, we passed what looked like an ancient chapel. In the dim light, we discovered that outside this chapel was one of the oldest and most famous calvaries - large granite sculptures which depict the life of Christ - from before birth to crucifixion and the resurrection. One of the most notable things which I found indicative of the attitude of 15th century Brittany (it was built about 1450), was a sculpture of Mary giving birth - breasts exposed. I'm surprised this wasn't considered blasphemous but again, I think it bespeaks the practical, down-to-earth nature of the Bretons of the time. It was getting dark and our pictures didn't turn out well, so the one at left was borrowed from the Wikepedia site.
 Sunset from Penmarc'h |  Tortured coastline from GR 34 |  Finistere Menhirs |
In the morning we got up and did a hike along the GR 34. At over 1600 kilometers, this is one of the longest Grande Randonnees in Europe. It was a cool drizzly morning and we made our way along the tortured rocky coastline to the north. To the south there were miles of sand dunes. Along the trail, there are signs about the area. Many explain the harsh life of the Finistere Bretons, most of whom made their livings harvesting kelp, then submitting it to an arduous process to extract iodine for sale. It was a meager living at best. They also talked of shipwrecks - not from centuries ago, but from the 20th century. While this group of Bretons knew the ocean, the rocky coast, radical tide changes, and severe weather cost many their lives.
The town of Morlaix After a bit more exploration of this bleak part of Finistere, we continued our trip towards our next destination, Perros Guirec. Along the way we passed though a spectacular national park of rocky cliffs and pine forests, then decided to stop for lunch in Morlaix, hometown to one of our French friends. The town is built in a canyon carved out by a small river. On the north end is a harbor which is inland from the coast. We'll definitely return to do more exploration of Morlaix.
Perros Gueric sunset Arriving at our hotel in Perros Guirec, we were blown away. The Hotel Manoir du Sphinx is built into the side of a cliff that looks out onto the seven islands. It sits half way between the two main areas of Perros Guirec - a harbor to the east and a long beach to the west. We went for a walk to do some exploring and found the people very friendly - even more reminiscent of the Basque region where everyone you pass says hello. We had an excellent meal in the hotel's restaurant and explored a bit more of the town afterwards.
 Starting our hike along the GR 34 |  Pink Granite Formations |  Looking back at Perros Guirec |
The next day we did a hike towards the west on the GR 34. This section of the Grande Randonnee features spectacular pink granite rock formations. The trail itself follows the ancient Sentier des Douaniers - trail of the customs agents. Along the trail there are small structures built of pink granite that are camouflaged among the rocks so that the custom agents could spy on smugglers.
After several miles, we turned back passing through the village of Ploumanac'h, and then catching up to the GR 34 again. There was some small crowded surf in the afternoon but I decided to pass. That evening we had another fantastic dinner, this time at La Suite overlooking the beach in western Perros.
For breakfast the next morning, we stopped at a artisanal bakery where we found some of the best bread we've eaten in France - and that's saying a lot! We're big bread fans and the French with their 3-4 bakes a day supply some of the best, freshest bread in the world. But I do love heavy breads like the black breads found in Germany and eastern Europe, so I really enjoyed the hearty fresh bread of Brittany.
In looking back at our quick trip up the west coast of France with our stops in Ile d'Oleron, Olonne-sur-mer, and Quiberon (which is part of Brittany), clearly Brittany wins out. We felt at home there much as we do in the Basque Region. Between the history (actually pre-history), the spectacular landscapes, the rugged ocean, the GR 34, and the interesting people, there's much to explore and experience. Without a doubt, we'll be going back.
After several miles, we turned back passing through the village of Ploumanac'h, and then catching up to the GR 34 again. There was some small crowded surf in the afternoon but I decided to pass. That evening we had another fantastic dinner, this time at La Suite overlooking the beach in western Perros.
For breakfast the next morning, we stopped at a artisanal bakery where we found some of the best bread we've eaten in France - and that's saying a lot! We're big bread fans and the French with their 3-4 bakes a day supply some of the best, freshest bread in the world. But I do love heavy breads like the black breads found in Germany and eastern Europe, so I really enjoyed the hearty fresh bread of Brittany.
In looking back at our quick trip up the west coast of France with our stops in Ile d'Oleron, Olonne-sur-mer, and Quiberon (which is part of Brittany), clearly Brittany wins out. We felt at home there much as we do in the Basque Region. Between the history (actually pre-history), the spectacular landscapes, the rugged ocean, the GR 34, and the interesting people, there's much to explore and experience. Without a doubt, we'll be going back.
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