STEVE JACKOWSKI

fr.stevejackowski.com (site en Français)

  • Life & Work
  • Novels
    • The Swimmer
    • The Misogynist
    • The 15th Juror
    • The Shadow of God
    • The Silicon Lathe
    • L'Ombre de Dieu
    • Ethics
  • Blog
    • Electric Vehicles (EVs)
    • France
    • Personal
    • Sports
    • Startups
    • Work in Progress
    • Writing
  • Reviews
    • The Misogynist
    • The Shadow of God
    • The Silicon Lathe
  • Picture Gallery
  • Contact
  • Work in Progress

Ainhoa et La Chapelle d’Aubépine – a spectacular hike in the Pyrenees

11/1/2019

4 Comments

 
Picture
After a week of spectacular fall weather with temperatures in the mid to upper 70s, the beginning of November began with a rainy forecast - for at least a week.  Seeing a brief break before heavy precipitation began, Karen and I decided to see if we could sneak in a hike before returning to shelter from the incoming storm at our place in Guethary.

Our friend Dominique Pasquier Biansan had recently posted Sebastien Carnet's spectacular sunset picture above, taken from La Chapelle d’Aubépine near the small Basque village of Ainhoa about 35 minutes from here.   In spite of all the hiking we've done in the Pyrenees, and although we've come across prehistoric cromlechs, dolmen, and megaliths out in the middle of nowhere (see my post Pays Basque: Sare, Zugarramurdi,  (witches!) and a Hike into Prehistory), we had yet to come across Basque steles - ancient burial markers found along trails in the mountains.  We decided to brave a few residual showers and make our way to the chapel.

We parked in Ainhoa, which sits right on the Spanish border.  The village is well known as a stop for pilgrims on on the Santiago de Campostella or the Way of Saint James.  It's also a stop for those hiking the GR-10 - the 538-mile trail that runs from Hendaye on the Atlantic, through the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean:  157,000 vertical feet of climb in what, for most, is a two-month hike.   

Heading out of the village, we started up a paved road which soon turned to dirt - no motor vehicles allowed.  After the first turn, we read the warning sign about Betizu - wild cattle that roam this section of the Pyrenees - in a nutshell, avoid them if at all possible.  Fortunately, we didn't see any on this hike (we'd seen them on others and they were pretty aggressive), but we did pass a few groups of Pottuk - small semi-wild horses also native to the Pyrennes.  


Picture
Watch out for Betizu!
Picture
One of many pottuk along the way.

We continued up the steep road/trail and were stunned by the beauty in spite of the numerous showers limiting our views. 
​ 
Picture
Peaks of the Pyrenees to the southeast.
Picture
Rainy ridges to the south.

And, over the course of our 50-minute hike to the chapel, each turn revealed even more amazing vistas. 

​After climbing about 1000 vertical feet, we were a bit disappointed by the chapel itself.  It was built on a site where a shepherd saw the Virgin Mary who appeared above a hawthorn bush (aubépine in French).  It was closed today.  Perhaps the inside is impressive, but my photos of the exterior weren't worth posting.   Then again, it wasn't the chapel we'd come to see.  It was the steles and the views from the top.  
​
Picture
Steles with La Rhune in the background. You can see a peek of the peaks of Les Trois Couronnes behind it to the upper left. The ocean (Bay of Biscay) is in the distance on the right.
While many of the steles are reproductions, several are originals, dating from the early 1600s.  They are intricately carved on both sides unlike headstones we see in the States.  On the originals, most of the designs remain, but nearly 400 years of exposure to the elements has made the text illegible. 
​ 
Picture
It may have been a rainy day, but the views were still spectacular.

The showers stopped, and our photos improved.  We considered continuing on the GR10 a bit further.  Past the chapel, it turns into a single track trail and there's a loop back to Ainhoa, which would make a nice 6-mile hike.  However, given the incoming weather and our limited experience with the area, we decided to be conservative and head back down the way we came.  

This, like most parts of the GR-10 is well worth the hike.  We're looking forward to longer forays into this area once the weather improves.
4 Comments
Tom Powers
11/1/2019 10:46:58 am

Thanks Steve & Karen! Awesome views! We'll have to join you for this hike next time we're in France (can't wait!)

Reply
Steve Jackowski link
11/1/2019 10:51:49 am

Hey Tom, Hope the end of your trip went well. We look forward to hearing all about it when we get back in a few weeks. In the meantime, we're settling in for a rainy week where I'll be getting a lot of writing done on my next book.

Reply
Sabrina
11/1/2019 10:49:00 am

Glad you guys got out for a lovely hike! That picture at the very top of Sebastien's is amazing!

Reply
Steve Jackowski
11/1/2019 10:53:33 am

It really is an amazing shot as are the other pictures I've seen. We're settling in for a rainy week. Sorry we can't send some your way.

Reply

Your comment will be posted after it is approved.


Leave a Reply.

    Picture

    Steve Jackowski

    Writer, extreme sports enthusiast, serial entrepreneur, technologist.

     
    Check out my latest novel!
    Picture

    Categories

    All
    Electric Vehicles (EVs)
    France
    Personal
    Sports
    Startups
    Work In Progress
    Writing

    RSS Feed

    Archives

    September 2022
    June 2022
    October 2021
    June 2021
    October 2020
    September 2020
    May 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    October 2018
    September 2018
    June 2018
    January 2018
    November 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    June 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    June 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    December 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013



Proudly powered by Weebly

BACK TO TOP

Plain & Simple Web Design © 2013