Stork and baby Shortly after our arrival in France in April, our neighbors Christian and Koro invited us on a trip to Porto in Portugal. We debated briefly whether we should take their hybrid or our rented electric ID.3, but since we weren't familiar with the charging situation in Spain, we reluctantly decided to take the hybrid. As it turned out, aside from adding an extra 30-45 minutes to our trip each way for charging, it wouldn't have been a problem.
Entering Spain, Christian decided to take the N-1 not only to avoid the exorbitant tolls on the AP-1, but because it took us through a scenic canyon along the Rio Arakil.
Rather than do the 8-hour drive to Porto without stopping, they suggested we might want to see Salamanca, home to the oldest active university in Spain.
Entering Spain, Christian decided to take the N-1 not only to avoid the exorbitant tolls on the AP-1, but because it took us through a scenic canyon along the Rio Arakil.
Rather than do the 8-hour drive to Porto without stopping, they suggested we might want to see Salamanca, home to the oldest active university in Spain.
La Puerta de Salamanca While the architecture and history of Salamanca were fascinating, I have to admit that it was the storks that got me excited. I'd never seen a stork before, but here in Salamanca, many of the towers on ancient buildings had storks' nests. I wasn't quick enough to photograph one in flight, but with wingspans of about 10 FEET(!), they're incredibly impressive.
We found a great place for lunch, sharing several rationes - large appetizers. After lunch, we toured the city and visited the university, which is reputed to be the 3rd oldest in the world. It has a world-renowned door called La Puerta de Salamanca. Quite a few tourists (like us) stood in front of it, searching for the mysterious frog hidden in the sculpture. Supposedly, if you find it, you'll have good luck for the next year.
 La Plaza Mayor |  Salamanca Cathedral |
Mysterious astronaut sculpted in 1733? We visited the Plaza Mayor and toured the shops and restaurants on the sides of the plaza, then continued to the Cathedral. And, like many cathedrals in Europe, Salamanca's is beautiful, but as you can see, the architecture is unique - a mix of Gothic and Baroque styles. It was built between 1513 and 1733.
As we were looking at the sculpted exterior, we were fascinated to find an astronaut. An astronaut in a sculpture from before 1733?! It looked like the theories of extraterrestrials visiting us hundreds of years ago might be true. But no. A little research showed that the astronaut was a planned addition in 1992 as a 'signature' by the artist doing restauration.
As we were looking at the sculpted exterior, we were fascinated to find an astronaut. An astronaut in a sculpture from before 1733?! It looked like the theories of extraterrestrials visiting us hundreds of years ago might be true. But no. A little research showed that the astronaut was a planned addition in 1992 as a 'signature' by the artist doing restauration.
Igreja da Colegiada de Sao Salvador The next morning we started the 3-and-a-half-hour drive to Porto. Christian and Koro wanted to show us Coimbra, a former capital of Portugal, known as the City of Knowledge since it harbors the oldest university in Portugal. Our plan was to have lunch, walk around the city, then make the drive north to Porto where we would spend 3 nights.
Just after crossing the border into Portugal, as we drove through miles and miles of cork-producing oak trees (Portugal is the world's largest producer of cork), Christian noticed that we needed gas. We pulled into a service plaza, surprised to see lines of cars. They had no power. It was April 28th and the entire Iberian Peninsula was without power.
We had a decision to make. If we went to Coimbra, and there wasn't an open gas station, we wouldn't make it to Porto. We discussed options as we continued west. Fortunately, the next service area was open saying their power had just come back on. We filled up and headed towards Coimbra assuming the power outage was over.
We went into the main square looking for an open restaurant and quickly discovered that the city had no power. We ultimately found a restaurant that was serving salads and had lunch. We walked around the city admiring the architecture of the cathedral and of the Ingreja da Colegiada de Sao Salvador with its blue tiles - something we'd see quite a bit of in Porto. But, with no power, everything was closed except, of course, the solar-powered parking meters where we were 5 minutes late and got a ticket.
Just after crossing the border into Portugal, as we drove through miles and miles of cork-producing oak trees (Portugal is the world's largest producer of cork), Christian noticed that we needed gas. We pulled into a service plaza, surprised to see lines of cars. They had no power. It was April 28th and the entire Iberian Peninsula was without power.
We had a decision to make. If we went to Coimbra, and there wasn't an open gas station, we wouldn't make it to Porto. We discussed options as we continued west. Fortunately, the next service area was open saying their power had just come back on. We filled up and headed towards Coimbra assuming the power outage was over.
We went into the main square looking for an open restaurant and quickly discovered that the city had no power. We ultimately found a restaurant that was serving salads and had lunch. We walked around the city admiring the architecture of the cathedral and of the Ingreja da Colegiada de Sao Salvador with its blue tiles - something we'd see quite a bit of in Porto. But, with no power, everything was closed except, of course, the solar-powered parking meters where we were 5 minutes late and got a ticket.
View upstream from the Dom Luis I Bridge We made our way to Porto, expecting that a city of 1.3 million people would certainly have power, but no. Our hotel was dark and there was no way to pay. Fortunately, the management was flexible and offered flashlights.
After unpacking, we started touring the city. We made our way down to the Dom Luis I Bridge for our first views of the Rio Douro in Portugal and the six famous bridges. This one is a pedestrian bridge on the upper level about 150 feet above the river. To the south is the Vila Nova de Gaia section of Porto where several excellent wineries (making port) and restaurants line the river. To the west, you can make out the Atlantic Ocean just a mile or two away.
All the restaurants and most shops were closed but a few bakeries were open - cash only. Being old, we always carry some cash - enough to get home if we needed a taxi. Unfortunately, many of the young people we encountered were stuck. And as the sun set, Porto went BLACK. No lights anywhere.
It was eerie walking the streets of a large city in total darkness. The only lights were cell phones, flashlights and a few car headlights. At one point we came around a corner and saw a line. Out of curiosity, we followed the line around one block, then two, and then we saw it - a lone ATM that had emergency power.
We bought some pastries and wine at one of the bakeries and had dinner in the dark. We made our way back to the hotel and noticed that across the river a few lights had started to come on. About 10:30pm, power came back on. We all plugged in our phones.
After unpacking, we started touring the city. We made our way down to the Dom Luis I Bridge for our first views of the Rio Douro in Portugal and the six famous bridges. This one is a pedestrian bridge on the upper level about 150 feet above the river. To the south is the Vila Nova de Gaia section of Porto where several excellent wineries (making port) and restaurants line the river. To the west, you can make out the Atlantic Ocean just a mile or two away.
All the restaurants and most shops were closed but a few bakeries were open - cash only. Being old, we always carry some cash - enough to get home if we needed a taxi. Unfortunately, many of the young people we encountered were stuck. And as the sun set, Porto went BLACK. No lights anywhere.
It was eerie walking the streets of a large city in total darkness. The only lights were cell phones, flashlights and a few car headlights. At one point we came around a corner and saw a line. Out of curiosity, we followed the line around one block, then two, and then we saw it - a lone ATM that had emergency power.
We bought some pastries and wine at one of the bakeries and had dinner in the dark. We made our way back to the hotel and noticed that across the river a few lights had started to come on. About 10:30pm, power came back on. We all plugged in our phones.
Great seafood restaurants a block inland from the beach Koro recommended breakfast at the Cafe Majestic, a well-known place to be seen. The breakfast, while a bit expensive was excellent. The scones were phenomenal!
Koro also recommended that we get tickets for hop-on/hop-off bus along with the associated tours. The buses travel both the south side (Vila Nova de Gaia) and the north side of the river to the coast. Headsets give you a verbal tour as you pass particular places in the city and you can stop anywhere and then get back on a later bus - they pass most places every 15-20 minutes.
After multiple stops to explore, we ultimately decided to have lunch near the beach. Christian told us that one block off the beach was a small road that led to the harbor and that all the restaurants had fresh-caught fish. We found one that had an open table for 4 and shared a sumptuous lunch.
Koro also recommended that we get tickets for hop-on/hop-off bus along with the associated tours. The buses travel both the south side (Vila Nova de Gaia) and the north side of the river to the coast. Headsets give you a verbal tour as you pass particular places in the city and you can stop anywhere and then get back on a later bus - they pass most places every 15-20 minutes.
After multiple stops to explore, we ultimately decided to have lunch near the beach. Christian told us that one block off the beach was a small road that led to the harbor and that all the restaurants had fresh-caught fish. We found one that had an open table for 4 and shared a sumptuous lunch.
Maria Pia Bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel from our boat Part of our tour included a boat trip down the river to the ocean and back under the 6 bridges where we saw unique architecture and countless buildings built into the cliffs overlooking the river.
The next day, after a quick breakfast in a nearby cafe, we hopped on the bus and explored the south side of the river. We walked down to the banks of the river to visit three wineries, included in our tour tickets, for port tastings. I'm not a big fan of port but the history surrounding the grapes and the harvests was fascinating.
It turns out that the Rio Douro is actually called the El Duero in Spain - same river. Some of our favorite wines come from Ribero del Duero. This long river, which spans the border of the two countries, produces excellent wines in both Spain and Portugal.
After touring port tastings, we looked for a place to have lunch. Most of the restaurants along the river were full and it had started raining so seating was limited to inside. I did a search and found the Restaurante De Castro Gaia on the third floor of the Porto Cruz winery. With spectacular views, we feasted on the best meal of the trip. If you visit Porto, I'd say this restaurant is a must.
With the pouring rain, Koro and Christian decided to look for a taxi to get back to the hotel. We decided to walk. We crossed the river on the lower level of the Dom Luis I Bridge, then climbed the 400+ steps to the top of the cliff. The rain didn't let up, but the walk and the views were exhilarating.
The next morning, after searching for a mailbox (apparently international mail in Portugal uses different mailboxes), we started our uneventfully 8-hour return trip to the Pays Basque. Koro and Christian promised to 'drag' us to Lisbon next time. I guess we'll just have to go.
If you like this post (and even if you didn't) please check out my novels and my new (free) novelette.
The next day, after a quick breakfast in a nearby cafe, we hopped on the bus and explored the south side of the river. We walked down to the banks of the river to visit three wineries, included in our tour tickets, for port tastings. I'm not a big fan of port but the history surrounding the grapes and the harvests was fascinating.
It turns out that the Rio Douro is actually called the El Duero in Spain - same river. Some of our favorite wines come from Ribero del Duero. This long river, which spans the border of the two countries, produces excellent wines in both Spain and Portugal.
After touring port tastings, we looked for a place to have lunch. Most of the restaurants along the river were full and it had started raining so seating was limited to inside. I did a search and found the Restaurante De Castro Gaia on the third floor of the Porto Cruz winery. With spectacular views, we feasted on the best meal of the trip. If you visit Porto, I'd say this restaurant is a must.
With the pouring rain, Koro and Christian decided to look for a taxi to get back to the hotel. We decided to walk. We crossed the river on the lower level of the Dom Luis I Bridge, then climbed the 400+ steps to the top of the cliff. The rain didn't let up, but the walk and the views were exhilarating.
The next morning, after searching for a mailbox (apparently international mail in Portugal uses different mailboxes), we started our uneventfully 8-hour return trip to the Pays Basque. Koro and Christian promised to 'drag' us to Lisbon next time. I guess we'll just have to go.
If you like this post (and even if you didn't) please check out my novels and my new (free) novelette.
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